Here’s an unrelatable problem for most people: I had a hard time finding a Halloween costume for my 5 pound dog last year. So this year, I made her one specifically designed to fit with her harness.

Some style considerations I had to make to accomplish this:

• Hole in the middle of the back 
• Buttons down the back
• Offset hood

I think my brother-in-law suggested Eeyore as her costume because of her little stuffed-animal posture and sad eyes when she’s asking for treats or used napkins or an entire pumpkin. Regardless of reason, it sounded ADORABLE. 

I think in reality, it was more haunting than adorable.

Here’s the pattern for any Winnie the Pooh fans with 5 pound dogs out there:

Materials

Yarn

MC: Cascade 220 Superwash in Gray, 1 skein

CC1: Knit Picks Shine Worsted in Crocus, 1 skein

CC2: Knit Picks Fable Fur in Hibou, 1 skein

Needles

US size 6

US size 8

4 buttons

• 2 practical for the back
• 2 decorative for the eyes

Size: XXXS

Pattern notes

• I didn’t add button holes for both laziness reasons and for a more secure hold. The buttons I bought for the back were small enough to tuck into the weave.

Gauge 

9 stitches and 12 rows = 2 inches

in ST (size 8 needles)

Pattern

CO 78 with size 6 needles and MC 

Knit in 1×1 rib for 1”

Switch to size 8 needles 

Rows 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9: K1, kf&b, k to last 3, k2tog, k2

Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10: K2, p to last 2, k2

Place marker in center of row

Row 11: K to 12 stitches before marker.

Place remaining stitches on stitch holder. Leave middle stitch marker in place

Row 12 (WS): P2tog, p to last 2, k2

Rows 13, 15, and 17: K to last 2, k2tog

Rows 14 and 16: P2tog to last 2, k2

Row 18: P to last 10, k10

Row 19: BO 10 k to end

Rows 20, 22, 24: P to end, k2

Rows 21, 23: Knit

Rows 25, 27: K to last 2, kf&b, k1

Row 26: Pf&b, k to last 2, k2

Row 28: Pf&b, p to end, BO 10

Row 29: K to last 2, kf&b, k1

Row 30: Pf&b, p to last 10, k10

Cut yarn. Place on stitch holder.

Belly

Pick up stitches from first stitch holder.

Row 1 (RS): Place first 4 stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn*. SSK, k12, k2tog. Place remaining stitches on stitch holder

Row 2 (WS) P2tog, p to last 2, p2tog

Row 3: SSK, k to last 2, k2tog

Rows 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, and 14: Purl

Rows 5, 7, 9, 11, 13: Knit

Rows 15, 17, 19, 21, and 23: Kf&b. k to last 2, kf&b, k1

Rows 16, 18, 20, 22, and 24 Purl

Cut yarn. Place on stitch holder. 

*You’ll pick these up later to form sleeves

Left side

Pick up stitches from stitch holder on the furthest left (last stitch holder with unworked stitches).

Row 1 (RS): Place first 4 stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn. SSK, k to end

Rows 2 and 4: K2, p to last 2, p2tog

Rows 3, and 5: SSK, k to end

Row 6: K10, p to last 2, p2tog

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: BO 10 p-wise, p to end

Rows 9, 11: Knit

Rows 10, 12: K2, p to end

Rows 13 and 15: Kf&b, k to end

Rows 14 and 16: K2, p to last 2, pf&b, p1

Row 17: Kf&b, k to end, CO 10

Row 18: K10, p to last 2, pf&b, p1

Cut yarn

Pick up all stitches across stitch holders (aside from two sets of 4 stitches in armholes)* making sure all stitches are facing front and in the right order

*You aren’t casting on 4 stitches per armhole, to create a decrease from belly to chest

Row 1 (RS): Knit across

Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: K2, p to last 2, k2

Row 3: K31, place marker, SSK, k18, place marker, SSK, k to end

Rows 5, 7: K to marker, SSK, k to marker, SSK, k to end

Hood

Row 9: BO to second marker, k13, kf&b, place marker, k1, kf&b, k to end

Rows 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26: Purl

Rows 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25: K to last stitch before marker, kf&b, k1, kf&b, k to end

Rows 27, 29, 31: Knit

Rows 28, 30, 32: Purl

Row 33: K1, SSK, k to 1 stitch before marker, remove marker, k2tog, replace marker, SSK, k to last 3, k2tog, k1

Row 34: Purl

Row 35: K to 2 before marker, k2tog, SSK, k to end

Repeat rows 34 and 35 until 32 stitches remain ending on WS rows. Cut yarn

Switch to size 6 needles

Ribbing

Starting 10 stitches in, pick up and knit 40 stitches across opposite side and back. Pick up and knit 38 stitches from side of hood, k across hood, pick up and knit 38 down the opposite side of the hood, ending above garter stitches.

Rows 2-4: K in 1×1 rib

Tubular bind-off

Nose

CC1 – cream

Size 6 needles

CO 12

Row 1: Kf&b, k in seed to last stitch, 

Row 2: k in seed

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until 22 stitches are in play, ending on WS row

K 4 rows in seed stitch

Row 1 (RS): K2tog, k in seed stitch to last 2, k2tog

Row 2: K in seed stitch

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until 12 stitches remain

BO

Legs

Size 6 needles and MC

Row 1: Pick up and knit 4 stitches from stitch holder, pick up and knit 46 stitches with double-pointed needles. Join in round. 

 4 rows rib

Ears

Size 8 needles

MC

CO2

Row 1: Kf&b, kf&b

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: Kf&b, k to stitch before last, kf&b, k1

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until 16 stitches are in play, ending on WS row

Rows 1-12: Knit in stochinette stitch

Row 13: SSK, k to last 2, k2tog

Row 14: Purl

Repeat rows 15 and 16 until 8 stitches remain, ending on WS row

BO

Inner Ears

Size 8

CC1

CO 6

Row 1: Kf&b, k to last 2, kf&b, k1

Row 2: Purl

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until 14 stitches are in play, ending on WS row

Knit in stockinette stitch for 6 rows

Row 1 (RS): SSK, k to last 2, k2tog

Row 2: Purl

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until 2 stitches remain

BO

Stitch inner ears to outer ears, RS facing out on both.

I used CC1 for the stitching for contrast. I like the homemade look for this project

Stitch the ears to the hood

Mane

CC2

Size 8 needles

Row 1: Pick up and knit a row or stitches down the increase/decrease line of the hood, starting between the ears and ending above the button flaps

Row 2: Knit, creating a loop of yarn the width of your finger between each stitch.

BO

Stitch decorative buttons to the hood for the eyes. Stitch practical buttons on the non-hood side of the back, above and below the square gap.